Thursday, July 22, 2010

Breakage...You Can't Live here Anymore

So in the last month or so I noticed that I'm getting a little bit of breakage.... Not as much as before i started my hair journey where I would see little hairs all over the bathroom sink and floor and have to dust them off my shoulder but still it was enough to cause a little concern...

My hair had been completely neglected for about 3 week because I was grieving ... anyway when I got back to my regular routine I gave myself a trim and washed 3 days a week to show my hair some love but the breakage crept up on me anyway...

Here's how I conquered the problem:

My hair has never really taken to the commercial protein products but clearly I needed some help. I purchased some wheat protein, hydrolyzed keratin protein, oat protein and mixed an ounce of each with coconut milk, wheat germ oil, rosehip oil and cheapie conditioner (just to make it easier to apply) and applied to freshly washed hair

I covered with a plastic and bag and slept in it overnight... I treated this as my version of a hard protein treatment.... The next morning I DC'ed with a moisturizing conditioner and then styled as usual

I really feel like my hair is protein sensitive so I am always careful not overdo the protein...I hate when my hair gets hard fvrom protein overload and it doesn't take a lot for me to OD.... so I have upped my use of ceramides to give my hair some strength

So far so good.... but I'll keep you posted... If you're having problems with breakage and need some help leave us a comment below and we'll see if we can help you stop the breakage

Tuesday, July 13, 2010

The Benefits of Silk Amino Acids

Okay I was supposed to write this blog a while ago but I was still researching....

First let's talk about what Silk Amino Acids (SAAs) are : Found in 2 forms, powder or liquid, silk amino acids are non-animal proteins that are derived from real silk. When you see silk amino acids in a liquid form (think silk polishing drops or chi silk infusion) the silk proteins have been hydrolyzed.

What are the benefits of SAAs for hair ?

* SAAs penetrate the hair strand and strengthen and repair it
* when SAAs dry on the hair they form a crystalline protective barrier that protects the hair from damage from alkaline (relaxer!!!) products (see that patent application http://www.freepatentsonline.com/7060260.html)

How to use SAAs:

1) add to deep conditioner
2) as a pre-relaxer treatment (cover hair with SAAs and then allow 10- 15 minutes for hair to dry and apply relaxer to new growth only)
3) mixed in with the moisturizer don't let the protein label fool you...SAAs help impart moisture and won't lead to protein overload...But don't go crazy because SAAS have a naturally fishy smell (now you know why chi has that strong smell, they are trying to cover that fishy smell)

I have to say I love SAAs... my hair has a natural shine to it and feels much stronger even though my hair is NOT a big fan of protein .... Get you some SAAs

Sunday, July 11, 2010

Do Weaves Damage the Self Esteem of Black Women??

hmmm... Let me make 2 things clear up front: 1) I don't have an answer to this question. I just think that as Black women who are on a quest for healthy, long hair, we should be having discussions about how the health and length of our hair affects our overall life... and 2) I have nothing against weave... I am not a weave hater...I just want an open honest dialogue..

So how did this discussion come about??? This picture right here
I remember seeing this picture when I was a little girl and oh my I loved it... I thought Diana Ross looked so beautiful and I would have traded all of my barbie dolls for HER hair... Back in the 80's people didn't discuss weave much so I had no idea this wasn't her hair... I used to wrap a towel around my hair and pretend that it was my lucious flowing hair...Now I know what you're thinking...a lot of people did that...it doesn't mean anything...but does it?? I mean it's one thing to want your hair to be longer or thicker (and to find out what works to make that happen) but it's another to wish for something completely unrealistic...

Evveryone is doing it... I get so annoyed when we call Black women out for wearing weave as if it's something only we do... White women, asian women, hispanic women... women of all races, ethnicities, socio-economic levels wear weaves (well they like to call them extensions but uh you say tomato, I say tumato but it's still fake hair)... So why are we treated differently??? I think it comes down to one EPIC stereotype that even Black women believe and that is that "BLACK WOMEN CANNOT GROW LONG HAIR"... See, women of other races are preceived as having the natural ability to GROW their hair as long as they'd like so when they wear "extensions" it's a matter of
CONVENIENCE... Most people believe that for Black women weaves are a matter of NECESSITY....

Let's think about what that means and how we play into the stereotype... I'll give you 30 seconds to name 5 Black female celebrities that DO NOT wear a weave.... I'm waiting...waiting...waiting... here's what I came up with Vanessa Williams (although she has worn wigs on Ugly
Betty before)... the other Vanessa Williams (who wears the most glamorous natural hairstyles I've ever seen) ... Oprah (although some
people still think her hair is weave)... Paula Patton (she almost didn't make the list but according to her interviews she is not bi-racial) and I
came up short on the last one

Okay I know you all are itching to send me more names and I'm itching to read them but know in advance that I intentionally did not list anyone who identifies as bi or multi racvial or Black Hispanic which us why I excluded people like Alicia Keys, Jurnee Smollett, Halle Berry,
Melanie Fiona, LaLa Vasquez, Zoe Saldana etc... Because a lot of people believe that being bi-racial or from a different ethnic background
changes the game plan.

But for the most part, most of the celebrities we see photographed on a regular basis wear weaves href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEil2pMgDVuT1nZLTOPrO1Jj6mYR_yCv3ZtVuKOqcOCq0Y69-OopQpW1SeeBqLoYGND6VlmvjFSr2snRibf5CConxPPq6QT_OSsoyD9aLLjVMo-BwsR3QaGq2O4CFN8ffVbq6H-TQGwwRcE/s1600/jennifer-hudson5.jpg">



I don't begrudge anyone for wearing any hairstyle they like.. natural, relaxed, fro, mohawk, weave, wig , braids, etc... it's your hair, do you....
but I do wonder if we are sending the wrong message to young Black girls... Will they continue to believe that Black women can't grow long
hair?? that the only way we achieve that is through weave?? And what about our own preconceived notions?? I find myself saying at least
twice a week," No it's not a weave...it's my hair"... it's the truth but I still get eye rolls and sucked teeth which we all know means "yeah
right".

I don't think weave is the problem but I do think as a community we are uneducated... First of all hair does grow at different rates but there
is ABSOLUTELY NO SCIENTIFIC PROOF that Black women have slower growing hair.

Weave is a great protective style and it is good to wear it to create different styles rather than putting stress on your own hair... But just like it's an option for other women, it's also an option for us... If you want long healthy hair, you can have it...

There is a such thing as terminal length but for the majority of people terminal length is not ear length, neck length, or shoulder length.... You may not be able to grow your hair to your ankles (because all of us have a growing phase, a resting phase and then a shedding phase...and your hair may shed before you get to ankle length) but you can surely have arm pit length or bra strap length hair.

HHJ!!

Friday, July 9, 2010

You Wash Your Hair Too Much

Yep, I actually had a woman to tell me that this week... My first instinct was to be insulted but then I remembered that this was a chance to educate her. I haven't always known about healthy hair practices myself and like most Black women I washed my hair once a week or every 2 weeks when I went to the salon.

In fact, I can recall feeling very indignant about the fact that Black women didn't need to wash their hair everyday. In fact, I recall a good friend asking me one day why "we" didn't wash our hair everyday. My chest puffes up with pride as I explained to my Caucasion friend that her hair was oily and would get nasty if she didn't wash it evveryday whereas my hair, like most Black girls, would not. Just as an aside, I also thought deep conditioners were for special occasions, something you did evvery couple of months to show your hair some extra love...LOL and don't even get me started on my ideas on moisturizing...

Anyway, over the years I have had friends of all races and ethnicities and almost all of them washed their hair daily...so why don't we??? Personally, I think a big part of the reason we don't wash our hair daily is because it would be time consuming... Women who wash daily tend to be able to wash and go with wet hair or can easily blow dry their hair straight in 30 minutes or less... We can't so that and lord knows our mothers didn't have that kind of time.

Does that mean that we're cheating ourselves by not washing our hair everyday?? Nope, I don't think so. In fact, I think washing your hair everyday with a sulfate shampoo would probably do more harm than good. But I also don't believe it's healthy to be washing your hair only every 2 weeks...

The truth, according to me anyway, lies somewhere in between the two. First let me say that I believe these cultural norms (washing everyday vs.washing twice a week) come from misconceptions on both sides. The culture that believes in washing daily hates the hair's natural oil production and blames it for limp, lifeless hair. We've talked about sebum production before so I won't beat a dead horse but the body's sebum production is a good thing for many reasons and while it isn't good to let the oil pile up and clog pores, it also isn't good to strip it all away by washing everyday. Now, remember we previously dicussed that sebum travels down a straight hair strand much faster than it does a curly (kinky) one so those with straight hair may need to wash more often (still not everyday) than those with curlier hair. On our side, I was often told not to wash more than once a week because water dries the hair out. I know it sounds silly now but I know a lot of Black women still believe that. The truth is, the water doesn't dry our hair out, it's all the stuff we do afterwards (blow drying, flat ironing, failing to DC,etc) that dry our hair out.

So how often should you wash??? It depends...LOL... I just can't give you a hard and fast answer but I believe most Black women should wash their hair every 3 to 4 days instead of once every 2 weeks and at the bare minimum you should be washing once a week. Why?? Well it all goes back to that sebum thing. Because the sebum doesn't travel down our hair shaft very well, we need to wash and deep condition regularly to put moisture back in our hair.

So how often do you wash your hair?? Now that you've learned healthier hair care tips are you passing them on to other women? What about if/when you have a daughter?? Will you take the time to wash her hair more often??

Thursday, July 1, 2010

MAKE UP SALE!!!

Okay so as a general rule we don't push brands or stores on here because we just don't want to be product pushers...LOL... but I saw this sale and just felt like I had to let you know about it...

For years I believed that make-up had to come from MAC (even though I hardly wore make up and was shelling out major money for MAC).. fortunately, as I grew older I also got a little wiser... and discovvered that quality isn't always found in a name brand...

So Ulta is having a major sale on palettes...

first up in the 92 piece blockbuster



This collection comes in 2 color palettes: the Classic Collection and the Trendsetter...I already have a lot of classic eyeshadows so I opted for the trendsetter...

What you get: 64 eyeshadows, 22 lip colors, blush and pressed powder... the pressed powders never match me but I use them as an eyeshadow primer... oh and a couple of brushes

The best part is the price 17.99 and click here for a 20% off coupon and you'll get it for 14.40 http://www.dealigg.com/story-ULTA-Coupon-Code-Promotions

What else I bought:

I am going on a beach vacay very soon and thought why not look great while I frolick on the beach and Ulta swooped into the rescue



water resistant eyeshadows !!! oh yeah...frolick in the sand and water and keep my make-up on..oh yeah I'm ready

They also have OPI,Orly, Essie, and China Glaze nail polishes on sale buy 2 get 1 free

My NEW favorite Revlon PhotoReady foundation is on sale buy one get one 50% off (which is an amazing deal considering I used to fork out $40 for MakeUp Forever foundation)

So print off one or more of those coupons above and get yourself to Ulta...this sale won't last forever

Wednesday, June 30, 2010

Summer Hair...Sexy Beach Waves

So all of our favorite magazines are touting the hottest summer hairstyles...I couldn't help but notice that most of these summer styles require heat... There has to be a way to have fabulous summer hair without a whole of direct heat...right??? Well our mission (and yes we choose to accept it...LOL) is to recreate some of these hot summer looks without that NASTY HEAT MONSTER... Now we don't make any promises that styles are going to be exactly the same because we are not professionals but hey it's summer and we figure the only way to know for sure is to try...

So my first attempt at a cool summer style... SEXY BEACH WAVES

here's the magazine looks




it's a good look for J Lo



and Rachel Bilson

an article on how to get the beach waves look

http://beauty.about.com/od/hairbasics/ht/sexywaves.htm

most articles I found on recreating this look suggested using a curling iron and then separating the curls... I have tried that way in the past and it does work... but you need to add oil sheen and polisher afterwards to get a shiny look because your hair is so dry (and please don't forget the heat protectant if you try it this way)

My Challenge:

Okay since I was determined to use NO direct heat for this style.. here's what I did


Washed
Light Protein Treatment
Coffee Rinse
Deep Conditioned
Air Dried
After my hair was dry, I moisturized and then parted it into 4 sections and did a big bantu knot in each section
Slept on it overnight and VOILA (ignore the scowl on my face...I'm feeling a bit under the weather)

here's what you get... be kind...I don't have a lot of experience with bantu knots







All in all I give myself a B+...I would like them to be a little bit cleaner but they are supposed to be tousled... Okay so you all weigh in... what grade would you give me and will you be trying this style out for summer??

Monday, June 28, 2010

Better Hair = More Confidence????

Okay so I realize that some of you may be reading the title and saying "Duh Ke Ke".... But I have to say that I did not realize how much my confidence was actually tied to my hair... Like every human being, I've experienced moments of self-doubt or even felt unpretty but for the most part I'm a pretty confident chica....

Whenever my friends and I have prepared for big events, we've often channeled or compared ourselves to our favorite celebrities... For instance, I am about the same complexion as Halle Berry and even the same hourglass body shape(but I am heavier than she is) so many times when I was considering a style or an outfit, I used her as inspiration... In fact, once a friend and I were planning a vacation and I literally planned all of my outfits based on various outfits Halle Berry was wearing in pics... Yep it was that serious... and before you fall out of your seat laughing you should know that I got compliments on my clothes all week.

So what's the point??? Well a few weeks ago I was having a conversation with some friends and the question arose about which celebrity we'd most like to "be" like... In the past, I would have had a ready answer for that question... While I don't envy her personal life, I've always admired Halle Berry's beauty, confidence, and persistence to pursue her dreams...BUT for whatever reason that day when the question was asked I felt like I was at a loss... I don't envy any celebrities, I thought and really the way I feel about myself right now I don't want to emulate any of them... I'm just so proud to be Ke Ke right now.. and quite honestly, I feel like the only thing that has changed about me in the past few months is my hair...

Maybe it sounds crazy but I really feel like the triumphs I have had with my hair over the last 9 months have instilled a new confidence in me.... I have always known that when it comes to work if I set my mind to it then I could accomplish it but some things I thougvht were beyond my control... my hair was definitely one of those things... when it wanted to behave it did and when it didn't I couldn't do anything about it but pull it back in a ponytail... I no longer feel helpless about my hair... in fact, I feel like I can grow it to any length that I'd like... I love that it is full thick and bouncy...I see myself differently when I look in the mirror... I used to envy women with long hair (especially women of other races) because it seemed like they had "perfect" hair and I just thought that was beyond my reach AND now I know just how great my own hair CAN be... and it's a great feeling...

I have received messages from Black women who say they thought the only way Black women could have long thick hair is by getting a weave or wearing wigs.... the truth is, Black women can grow long hair.... Our hair grows at the same rate as everyone else's...there is no scientific proof at all that our hair grows slower than other races...our problem comes with length retention and we fail to retain length because we don't know how to properly care for our hair... But we can learn !!

Remember even in a world full of chaos, you can achievve a healthy state of hair...

Friday, June 25, 2010

Tea Rinses Reduce Shedding

We get a lot of emails from you guys about excessive shedding. If you follow us at all you know that I suffer from lupus and take various medications to combat this disease. One of these medicines, a very strong steroid, was causing my hair to come out in clumps and me to collapse in tears. I had read several blogs about garlic but it really didn't do much for my hair and I really could not stomach the smell. Fortunately, I discovered a great alternative: black tea rinses.

To accomplish a black tea rinse you'll need to brew up some regular black tea (I like Earl Grey and English breakfast but you can use any black tea you like)... Let it cool, then wash your hair. You can either pour the tea directly over your head, catch it in a bowl and repeat that step 4 more times or you can pour the tea in and immediately cover your head with a plastic bag and let it sit for about 20 minutes. Then rinse and deep condition.

Don't try to comb your hair before you DC because the tea will make your hair feel very coarse and combing will lead to breakage. You will notice the results immediately and tea rinses can be done weekly.


Even in a world of chaos, you can have a Healthy State of Hair

Friday, June 11, 2010

Scritching/Scalp Massaging

You've heard me talk about scritching before and probably thought that I just couldn't spell...LOL... but it's not a typo... Scritching is the art of scratching the scalp with an instrument. Some of you are probably looking at the computer screen cross-eyed, for years we've been told not to scratch our scalp. I even had a stylist scold me for it and I thought well what the heck am I supposed to do when it itches. I'm not advocating digging into your scalp with your fingers or even the old fashion scalp scratching that involves vigorously combing the scalp with the teeth of a rattail comb. The problem with both of these methods is that they aren't really controlled motions and you end up breaking the skin of the scalp which can actually lead to infections and/or scalp sores.

Scritching/scalp massaging however, when done correctly are beneficial to the hair AND scalp because they promote scalp circulation which can prevent/treat dry scalp, dandruff and actually promote hair growth.

So I'm going to try my first pictorial (I get a kick out of saying that, pictorial...LOL) to show you all how to scritch/scalp massage

What you'll need:





a metal-less ponytail holder (yes all of mine are stretched out of shape...LOL.. I have a lot of hair)

You can use any of the following 2 items to scritch... I have seen some articles that advocate using a paddle brush with the ball tips but I would not recommend that because it will tangle the hair which will inevitably lead to breakage



a rattail comb






scalp massager (can be bought for about 2 bucks at any BSS)


Steps:

1st pull your hair back in a low ponytail... if your hair is ear length or shorter then brush it all back in one direction



If you're using a rattail comb, push the tail end of the comb through your hair in a zig-zag, back and forth motion





If using the scalp massager, just work in a circular motion until cover your entire head




I usually scritch for about 10 minutes a day 3-4 days a week

Happy Hair journey !!!

NO HEAT STYLES

If you've been following us for a while you know that I have been almost 9 months without direct heat and I feel that it is the reason for my great progress. In September of 2009, I had shoulder length hair and decided that I wanted healthier, longer hair. In May 2010, less than a year later my hair is now bra strap length. Contrary to popular belief, Black hair does grow and although individual hair growth rates vary, on average Black hair grows just as quickly as women of other races . Our problem is with retaining length.

I have received a lot of messages from people stating that they just cannot style their hair without direct heat. I feel your pain because for so much of life I believed only heat and professional stylists could tame my hair. I felt hapless when it came to caring for and styling my hair, and like many of you I was willing to pay almost any amout of money to anyone who claimed they could give my hair that well coiffed look.

The truth is you can style your hair without direct heat and I will prove it to you and even teach you how to do it for yourself.

First up is airdrying..... I'll never forget the first time I tried this my hair was a hot mess... There is just no other way to say it. I swore it off immediately but recently I revisited airdrying and I've found a system that works..

Here are my steps

Pre-poo

Wash

Coffee rinse

Deep condition

Applied leave-ins... I used our own moisturizing leave-in and shea butter moisturizer

Parted my hair down the middle and then ponytailed one section

Using a wide tooth comb to evenly sepaprate the hair I gently combed the section that was not in a ponytail. Take ponytail down and repeat on new section of hair.

The ends dried fairly quickly but the roots were still damp afvter many many hours so I sat under the hooded dryer for about 15-20 minutes on cool.

Afterwards, my hair was still very stiff so I added more moisturizer so that I could shape my hair and return the softness...

Now ya know I wouldn't leave you without pics

this is immediately after



and this is 3 days later...as you can see it got progressively better




Maintenance: I didn't wrap it because lately wrapping my hair has been causing serious tension on my edges. Instead I parted my hair down the middle and did 2 french braids and then slept on my pillow case... In the morning, I take down the braids and shake out...it does leave a little wave pattern to my hair but I like that

Protective style I tried after airdry


Wednesday, June 9, 2010

Stretching: What is it? How can it help you? Should you be doing it?

Stretching, in the world of healthy chemically treated hair, refers to extending the time between relaxer applications.

For years Black women have told that they must re-touch their relaxers every 4-6 weeks.... The problem with this is that on average the hair grows .5 inches a month (that's the average, your hair may grow slower or faster than the average) so at 4 weeks you probably don't have enough noticeable new growth and you are much more likely to overlap , i.e. putting the relaxer on hair that has perviously been relaxed. What's wrong with that? Putting more relaxer on hair that has previously been relaxed breaks down the previously relaxed hair leaving it weak and prone to breakage.

Most hair care gurus suggest waiting at least 8-10 weeks between relaxer applications to prevent overlapping but we think 10-12 is better.

Don't get me wrong, we undertand that stretching is an adjustment... We're so used to slapping in a relaxer at the first sign of new growth and you'll probably even have some well-meaning friends and family members say, "Girl, it's time for a re-touch" but in the end your hair will be stronger, healthier, and you'll be able to retain length, making it much longer.

You have three choices on how to handle your new growth when you're stretching...

1) wear curly hairstyles so that the different textures aren't that obvious... try braid-outs, bantu knot outs, or twist outs to blend the two textures

2) flat iron your new growth only.... It is healthier to apply heat to unprocessed hair than it is to apply it to chemically treated hair... Don't forget the heat protectant and don't make the flat iron too hot

3) just let the new growth go.... Personally, I've just embraced that my new growth is what it is...my hair... and so I usually roller set through my stretch which tames the new growth some but my hair and heat seem to be mortal enemies so I don't intend to subject them to each other often

More Tips for stretching:
1) Moisturize, Moisturize, Moisturize.... pay special attention to the line of demarcation between the new growth and the relaxed hair, the new growth itself and those vulnerable ends

2) Only detangle in the shower or when hair is wet.

3) Wash hair in sections to diminish tangles

4) Balance protein/moisture


HHJ!!

Benefits of Hibiscus



LOL... yes I'm talking about the flower.... In addition to being pretty and fragrant, the hibiscus flower also offers a lot of health benefits.

Health benefits of the hibiscus flower include:

Lowering blood pressure... scientific studies have proven what non-traditional medical practictioners have known for centuries... hibiscus tea can lower blood pressure by successfully preventing oxidation of low-density lipoprotein. But don't just take my word for it read about it here: http://www.webmd.com/heart/news/20081110/hibiscus-tea-may-cut-blood-pressure or watch it on YouTube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wts2HHW1AdM

Packed with vitamin C, hibiscus is also helpful in boosting your immune system and
helping to recover from colds

Hibiscus tea also helps fight cholesterol and CAN AID IN LOSING WEIGHT... yep yep that pretty little flower acts a diuretic and can reduce your appetite. AND it's caffeine free!!!

Now I couldn't leave this blog without telling you all about the benefits of hibiscus on HAIR!!! Hibiscus helps prevent dandruff, HAIR LOSS, and helps prevent split ends... Indian women have been using hibiscus treatments for decades and rave about its ayurvedic powers.

Personally, I have added hibiscus oil to my scalp massage oils and added hibiscus water to my leave-in conditioner.... I also suffer from high blood pressure (apparently a side effect of lupus) and have been drinking the hibiscus tea daily for a week. I'll let you know how it goes after 30 days...

Wednesday, May 19, 2010

NO SPLIT ENDS!!!!

Oh yes, you read correctly..... I have been dying to tell you all but I wanted to wait until I reached the TWO MONTH mark.... I have been a whole 2 months with no split ends... Not ONE...and please understand that I do search and destroy where I look for split ends at least ONCE a week, sometimes more....

Now you may be asking yourself why I am so obsessed with split ends.... For as long as I can remember (at least since I was about 13 and knew what a split end was) split ends have plagued my hair... Natural or relaxed it never mattered... I would be sitting in class or riding in the car, take a quick glance to the right or left and there would be at least 20 split ends all pointing and laughing at me.... I used to visit the salon weekly and faithfully get a trim with every relaxer... but less than a week after the trim I would still see split ends hanging around.... She started trimming my hair every 2 or 3 weeks...and never once told me,"hey, you have a problem"

Okay okay I know you want me to shut and stop talking about how great it is to have conquered split ends and just tell you how I accomplished this feat.... I always felt like my hair was so dry but growing up my mother(like most Black mothers) thought grease was some kind of magic potion and slathered it on like butter on toast ( ha ha I made a funny).... what I remember vividly about those days is that my head always felt like it was too heavy for my body.... everyone said it was because my hair was so thick but the truth was that mineral oil was weighing me down like an anchor.... So as soon as I started doing my own hair I vowed that I would not be using any grease... Swearing off grease was probably wise but I made the mistake of giving up on moisture period and that was not good...

A few things that I have learned that altered how I treat my hair:
  • The body makes its own natural moisturizer called sebum. Sebum not only adds moisture to your skin and hair but it also works as a barrier to protect your hair and skin from drying elements like wind and air.
  • The curlier/kinker/coarser your hair the harder it is for the sebum to travel down the hair strand AND sebum can't travel down a strand that is longer than neck length
  • 4 a/b/c hair is naturally drier than straighter textures
  • A split end is formed when the outer protective cuticle of the hair is destroyed, this causes the hair to literally split into two

When it comes to split ends an ounce of prevention is worth more than an ounce of cure

  • Limit your use of chemical applicatons like relaxers and dyes (these chemical processes break down the hair and alter its natural structure... use them sparingly... this year I am getting 3 relaxers... next year I plan to try and only get 2....contrary to what most stylists tell you, your hair does not need to be relaxed every 4-6 weeks)
  • Limit your use of direct heat (put the blow dryer, flat iron, and curling iron away and only break them out for extremely special occasions)
  • Pay attention to the ingredients on your hair care products -- mineral oil, a very popular ingredient in commercial hair products, does not add moisture to the hair. Instead, it sits on the hair suffocating your strands and blocking OUT moisture... Use products that contain mineral oil very sparingly

Now for the DOS

  • Do use products that contain ceramides -- I promise I have a blog coming on ceramides because I think they may be the holy grail of healthy hair but everytime I think I finish the blog I find more info on ceramides and fall in love all over again.... but for a quick overview ceramides act like a glue for the hair... they help hold together the scales that make up the fragile outer layer of hair
  • Do deep condition your hair regularly-- I feel so silly for abusing my hair for years... I had my hair flat ironed every week and then used a curling iron throughout the week BUT I thought deep conditioners were just a treat for the hair so I'd have a DC done once a month or once every couple of months.... silly silly me...it's a wonder I had any hair left at all... Now I DC at least twice a week (yep you read that right!! LOL)
  • Do trim split ends as soon as you see them (despite what you read on the label NO product has been scientifically proven to CURE split ends...once you have them you HAVE to cut them...that's why you have to focus on PREVENTION)
  • Moisturize your hair as needed (I actually moisurize once a day but I know a lot of people who do it twice a day and some who only do it twice a week.... You have to determine how much moisture your hair needs but give it ALL the moisture that it needs)
  • Steam Treatments are heavenly.... your hair will thank you for them... some people don't want to buy a steamer (personally I think it's worth saving up and making the investment...skip the vending machine at work for a month or two and save that money towards a steamer..your hair and your waistline will thank you) but there are some YouTube videos which show you how to do a "homemade" steam treatment.

Okay, I don't think you can ever completely rid yourself of split ends (or maybe I just believe that because it makes me feel better) BUT you can certainly take control of them before they take control of your hair... That's all for now

Lots of Love

Ke Ke



Friday, May 14, 2010

HENNA REVIEW

So I have been threatening to henna my hair for a while now but I didn't have the guts.... I have been highlighting my hair for about the last 10 years because I just felt like my hair was too dark for my facial features.... While I love the look of the blonde/copper highlights, I think that putting the bleach on top of my already relaxed hair is just asking for breaking and damage.... So I finally jumped in and did the henna...

Here's how it went down....

I mixed the henna with beer, coconut milk, olive and safflower oil, covered it and let it sit overnight... I washed with a clarifying shampoo, braided my hair and went to bed.

The next morning I mixed the indigo with black coffee and safflower oil.

Then I took the braids down and applied the henna to my air dried hair and covered with a plastic shower cap... I had intended to sit under the steamer but henna was all over my bathroom floor and sink so I spent the entire hour cleaning it up (I had to mop my bathroom floor.. this stuff goes every where).

I co-washed the henna out in the shower and let me tell you it was gritty and it took a 22.5 oz bottle of conditioner to get it all out.

After co-washing, I applied the henna and then sat under the steamer for about 20 minutes. Then I spent another hour in the shower and another 22.5 oz bottle of conditioner to get it out.

I was exhausted after all that so I literally slapped in the DC, put on a plastic bag and a satin scarf on it and then went straight to bed.


THE RESULTS:

hmmm.. well my hair is darker and it severaly toned down the highlights but it did not cover all of them.... I think that part of the problem was that I didn't order enough henna.... They said 100 grams for shoulder length hair and my hair is longer than shoulder length but I did not want to order 50.00 worth of this stuff when I didn't even know if I would like it. The good news is my hair does feel stronger...


What I liked:

Stronger hair

Nice color


What I didn't like:

Gritty and messy ( I wore clothes that I didn't care about but this stuff was falling all down my shirt, despite weraing gloves my nails currently have a green tinge which I find a little embarassing)

Took forever to get out of my hair


Will I do it again???

At least once more... I need to cover all of these highlights so I will do it at least once more.... After that I might consider doing it once or twice a year but I cannot see doing this every month or every other month like some other people do...I don't enjoy torture that much...LOL


Okay the pics.... Okay so I did not take good care of my roller set because I was really disappointed in the fact that all of the highlights weren't covered... So I will take better pics....


the henna




the look I wanted


the before



the after




UPDATE: So over the weekend I had time to really get used to the color and I feel in love.... I will do at least one more henna and then after that maybe I'll henna twice a year because it is very very very messy.... I took it down out of a bun just to take these pictures for you guys so be nice..







Thursday, April 8, 2010

Should You Be Oiling Your Scalp??

I know that some of you have no intention of reading this entire article, so I will make it easy for you….
The short answer is: Yes, if you want to achieve healthy, shiny hair you should be oiling your scalp. Why ?? Ha ha that’s the gotcha—if you want to know why you have to read the article…
The human scalp naturally produces and secretes oil known as sebum. Sebum lubricates your scalp and even helps moisturize your hair.
So if you have sebum, why would you need to oil your scalp? I’m getting there…
Commercial shampoos, environmental stresses, excessive heat use and even improper diet can affect your sebum levels. Also your curl pattern affects the ability of the sebum to actually lubricate your hair. Sebum cannot travel well down curly and kinky hair strands. Adding to that, scientists have discovered that if your hair is longer than neck length then the sebum does not travel the length of your hair shaft which can leave your hair dry and brittle. Sebum also acts as a barrier to keep moisture locked into the hair and skin and keep out certain harmful bacteria so when your sebum production is low you hair and scalp are much more vulnerable.


Okay so now that you know all the reasons you should be oiling your scalp, you need to know with what and when… Read on for a few tips
Choose oils that won’t clog your pores
Jojoba oil-- actually has the closest chemical composition to sebum
Safflower oil—good moisturizing oil
Castor oil-- many believe it thickens the hair and promotes hair growth
JBCO—many believe it thickens the hair and promotes hair growth
Coconut oil

Oiling your scalp and greasing your scalp are not the same thing—Never put any product that contains mineral oil or petrolatum (like most greases) on your scalp. Mineral oil/petrolatum can clog the pores trapping dirt and dust in your scalp.

Choosing how often to oil your scalp will depend on a couple of things
How often you wash your hair (especially with shampoos that contain harsh detergents like SLS); the more you wash the more your scalp will appreciate the oil replenishment
How thick or think your hair is and your hair texture; remember, the tighter your curl pattern the harder it is for sebum to travel down the hair shaft. Also, if your hair is densely packed your natural sebum may not be evenly distributed through all your hair and you may need to oil more often.

Have fun oiling…. Reach us with questions at healthystateofhair@live.com

Monday, April 5, 2010

Dream Hair

Ke Ke says: I always think it’s a good idea to have a goal or inspiration to strive towards. But sometimes, I worry that when people say “Oh, I want her hair” what they really mean is I hate my own hair. To me, your hair journey should be about getting your hair to be the healthiest, the thickest, and the longest it can be.

Choosing a hair idol that has long curly 3b hair when you have 4c hair will surely lead to disappointment and frustration. Personally, when people ask about my dream hair, I tell them I have my dream hair but I am working on giving it what it needs. Clearly I admire other people with beautiful hair and there are quite a few celebrities who have hair that is my ideal length (although some of them are weaves).

Ke Ke’s hair inspirations:

Keesha Sharp (better known as "Monica" from Girlfriends)

Jurnee Smollett... no matter whether curly or straight, her hair is beautiful





Amel Larrieux.... I know this is her natural texture but it's my texlaxed texture so I love this photo

Tuesday, March 30, 2010

6 MONTHS WITHOUT DIRECT HEAT!!! RAISE THE ROOF!!

You read correctly, for the last 6 months I have forsaken the flat iron, the curling iron, and the blow dryer!! Woo hoo!!

Some of you may be saying, “Okay Ke Ke, 6 months without direct heat big deal.” Well for me it is a big deal, before my hair journey the longest I went without one of those appliances was 6 hours ( Okay okay… I am exaggerating a little but I am trying to make a point so I am allowed a little creative license).

I honestly believed that my hair could not be straight and “pretty” without flat ironing. I also did not know how to make a curl or wave without the curling iron. I let hair dressers flat iron my hair weekly and if that wasn’t enough I usually used my curling iron twice a week to get a wavy look. So now not only was my hair relaxed and dyed, but I was also putting heat on it three times a week. The end result was ends that were frizzy and split. My hair had to be trimmed from Arm Pit Length (APL) back to full Shoulder Length (SL). On top of all that, it was shedding like crazy. One day when I got around to counting the fallen hairs I found more than 120 on the floor and gave up counting.

Since I have given up the heat, I have gone from SL to Below Shoulder Blade (BSB) length. Now I’ll be the first to admit that it has not been an easy addiction to break. I never believed that I could style my own hair especially without my trusty curling iron. But my hair has thrived from the extra attention and actually looks prettier than when it was flat ironed. I still am not a fan of braid outs because my hair (especially as it gets longer) has a tendency to tangle but I love roller setting, flexi-rods, and pin curls.

Tips to Help You Stay Away From the Heat:

Schedule your wash days in advance; when you don’t feel rushed you can take your time with your hair

Invest in rollers, flexi-rods, and clips. If you have everything you need to get a great look, you’ll be less tempted to pull out the blow dryer

They have rollers of all sizes but it may take you a couple of tries to get the look you want. Remember the smaller the roller, the tighter the curl. Ladies with Ear Length (EL) hair that desire a straighter look should try 1” rollers, after hair is dry use a brush to wrap the hair, cover your head with Saran wrap and then sit under the dryer for 10 minutes or without heat leave it wrapped for 30 minutes to an hour. Ladies with SL hair should try the 1.75” rollers (usually the purple ones in the BSS).

Ladies who hate being under the hair dryer (like me!!) should try magnetic rollers with a ceramic coating… They can cut your drying time in half.

Good luck ladies!! Leave any questions you have in the comment section or email us

I was too vain to take pictures when my hair looked bad so all I have to show you is the finished product

Tuesday, March 9, 2010

Dry Scalp Treatment

Even as a teenager I suffered from dry scalp…. My dermatologist swore it wasn’t actually dandruff and I didn’t need prescription medication but it was always embarrassing to me to see those little flakes in my hair. I really had just learned to accept it as part of my life and I was so careful when I wore black. I cringed whenever people standing next to me started dusting off my shoulder because I knew they were wiping away flakes.

About 3 months into my hair journey, I realized that I had the power to “change” certain things about my hair. I didn’t have to suffer from dry scalp any more than I had to live with the excessive shedding. So I decided to see what I could do to fix it.

There are quite a few things that could be causing your dry scalp. Pollution in the air contributes to the development of dry scalp as well as hard water. And of course the problems can start from the inside and your dry scalp may be directly related to your bad diet and failure to drink enough water. Another leading cause of dry scalp is the harsh cleaning agents used in most shampoos and other hair products.

The human scalp moisturizes itself by secreting oils known as sebum which is supposed to waterproof the skin and keep it from drying out. For some of the reasons listed above, people who suffer from dry scalp do not secrete enough sebum or was so much sebum away that it is not able to sufficiently protect the skin/scalp.


So how do you remedy your dry scalp?

First, increase your intake of water and fresh fruits and vegetables.

Check the ingredient lists on the back of your hair products. Mineral Oil and Petrolatum, often found in Black hair care products, actually coat the scalp and keep moisture from penetrating your hair. Ironically, these two ingredients usually appear in products that are labeled as moisturizing. SLS or Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, the detergent used in most major brand shampoos, can also dry out the scalp by stripping it of its natural oils.

Don’t scratch your scalp with your nails (don’t worry we’ll talk about other ways to tame that itch in the Tips section)

Invest in oils that do not clog the pores and apply them twice a week
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Tips that worked for me:

Drinking 6-8 glasses of water a day

I threw out all of my products which contained mineral oil and/or petrolatum.
I do an oil treatment before every wash. I have not thrown away all of my SLS shampoos. Eventually I would like to but most of the SLS free shampoos contain Coco-Betaine (supposedly a milder detergent) and I think it is as stripping as SLS and even worse it makes my hair feel like straw.

I bought a scalp massager and use it 2 to 3 times a week. Some days I utilize a process called Scritching (there will be an article on scritching soon). Scalp massages and Scritching actually encourages blood circulation in the scalp which result in increased sebum production


Hope that Helps !!

Ke Ke

Ke Ke's Ponytail Roller Set

After applying leave-ins, part hair into 6 sections and secure each section with an elastic... put 2 to 3 rollers in each ponytail










RESULTS:







What is a Regimen?

Whenever you hear women speak about truly getting their hair to a healthy state, you inevitably hear the word regimen. What exactly does the word mean and what does it have to do with your hair? The Encarta Dictionary defines regimen as a program to improve health utilizing medication, diet, exercise, or other measures intended to improve health or fitness. At healthy state of hair, we really like this definition.

In hair care, we define a regimen as the daily steps you take to get your hair healthy. A lot of people ask us about length and our response is always the same: All hair grows; healthy hair retains length, making it possible for you to grow long hair. One our biggest pet peeves is people saying, “My hair doesn’t grow”. Unless you have a medical problem, your hair does grow; the reality is that it probably breaks at the same rate or faster than it grows which is why you never see it getting longer.

Don’t believe us?? Any lady who has a relaxer knows that their hair grows… If it didn’t, you would never need a re-touch. That’s why we call it new growth.

So your hair grows, but you feel like it never gets longer. We know that feeling well and we can help you actually retain the length of your hair but you have to be prepared to make changes. One of our favorite sayings goes, “Stupidity is doing the same thing over and over again but expecting a different reaction.” It’s time to change the way you treat your hair.

They say it takes 30 days to learn a new habit but we’re going to ask you for 60 days… 60 days of doing things our way and you will see a change (for the better) in your hair… You really don’t have anything to lose… You ready???
The first step in getting your hair healthy is creating your own regimen and consistency is the key. Just like you won’t lose in weight if you only exercise once every 4 weeks, you can’t expect to improve your hair by treating it well once a month.

To help get you started, we’ve listed our own regimens below… The key to creating the perfect regimen is simply finding what works for your hair and doing it consistently. You should notice right away that our regimens are very different. Simply put, we don’t have the same hair so our hair doesn’t like the same things. Chris has 4 a hair which is finer and has a more defined curl pattern; she has the versatility of wearing it pin straight or very curly using braid outs. Ke Ke’s hair is 4 c and is coarse and more wavy than curly; while it does hold curl well, it looks better with straight or pin-curls. She very rarely does braid outs because her hair has a tendency to tangle and braid-outs encourage this behavior. You may find that mixing and matching parts of each regimen works best for you….


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Ke Ke's Regimen



*** Sunday Wash Day***

Oil hair, braid into 4 sections, and cover with plastic cap; Leave on for 30-45 minutes

Shampoo in shower; I apply my shampoo with an applicator bottle so that it is only on my scalp; Because my hair tangles easily (especially when stretching my relaxer) I wash each section individually and only apply shampoo to my scalp; Massage shampoo into scalp and rinse

Apply deep conditioner with brush and sit under steamer for 45 minutes. Rinse; Detangle in shower

Apply leave-in conditioners and roller set

***Thursday Wash Day***

Spray hair with rosewater and apply protein treatment; Braid into 4 sections

Shampoo in shower

Apply deep conditioner and leave in for 30 minutes (sometimes with heat and sometimes without)

Apply leave-in conditioners and roller set

*** Weekly Maintenance***

Baggy 3 to 4 times a week

Apply oil to scalp twice a week and massage scalp

Moisturize and seal daily

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Now that you know what we do, it's time to make your own